
Many sauces complement <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/06/dining/roasted-cauliflower-recipe-video.html">roasted cauliflower</a>; this one, from Martha Rose Shulman, is included in her recipe for roasted broccoli. As a matter of inspiration, it comes full circle: Ms. Shulman says she got the idea from one of her favorite Middle Eastern mezes, in which garlic tahini is served with cauliflower — deep-fried this time, rather than roasted.
In a mortar and pestle, mash the garlic clove to a purée with a generous pinch of salt.
Transfer to a bowl and whisk in the sesame tahini. Whisk in the lemon juice, beginning with the smaller amount. The mixture will stiffen up.
Gradually whisk in up to 1/3 cup water, until the sauce has the consistency of thick cream or runny yogurt. Taste and adjust salt. Sprinkle in pepper.