Why Crispy Gnocchi in Parmigiano-Reggiano Cream Is the Comfort Food You Need

Preheat oven to 425°F. Prick potatoes with a fork. Bake until a fork can be inserted easily, 50 to 60 minutes. Holding hot potatoes with an oven mitt or towel, split skins and quickly scoop out the flesh. Discard skins. Press hot potato flesh through a ricer or food mill into a large bowl.

In a small bowl whisk together egg yolks, 1/2 tsp. salt, and 1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper or ground white pepper. Make a well in the center of the potatoes; add egg mixture to the well. Stir to combine. Add 3/4 cup flour and 2 oz. (1/2 to 2/3 cup) of the Parmigiano-Reggiano; using your hands, mix together just until combined. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead in just enough of the remaining flour (you may not need any) to make a smooth, fairly soft dough that is still slightly sticky. Don’t overwork or add too much flour or the gnocchi will be heavy.

Divide dough into four portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll each portion into a 16-inch rope. Cut ropes into 1/2-inch pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. Add more flour to work surface as needed to prevent sticking.

Roll balls over a lightly floured gnocchi paddle or a fork to create ovals with ridges on one side. (There should be a small dimple on the other side from your thumb.) Place gnocchi on a lightly floured baking sheet. Set aside until ready to cook.

In a medium saucepan bring heavy cream to boiling; reduce heat to medium. Simmer, uncovered, until reduced and slightly thickened, 10 minutes. Alternately add milk and the remaining 6 oz. (1 1/2 to 2 cups) Parmigiano-Reggiano, one-fourth at a time, to saucepan, stirring until smooth. Return to simmering; simmer 3 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper. (Sauce will be a bit thin.) Turn off heat; cover saucepan

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to boiling; reduce heat to a simmer. Add half of the gnocchi, stirring to prevent them from sticking together. Cook until gnocchi rise to the top, 2 minutes (3 minutes if frozen). Using a slotted spoon, transfer gnocchi to a tray or shallow baking pan. Repeat with the remaining gnocchi.

In an extra-large skillet cook pancetta over medium-high until crisp, 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to a medium bowl.

In the same skillet cook and stir Brussels sprouts in drippings until browned and tender, 6 minutes. Transfer Brussels sprouts to bowl with pancetta.

Heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil in the same skillet over medium-high. Add half of the gnocchi to the skillet. Cook, without stirring, until browned on one side, 2 minutes. Turn and brown on the other side, 2 minutes. Transfer to bowl with Brussels sprouts and pancetta. Repeat with another 1 Tbsp. olive oil and the remaining gnocchi. Return all of the gnocchi, the Brussels sprouts, and pancetta to skillet; toss to heat through, 2 minutes.

To serve, reheat Parmigiano-Reggiano cream sauce over low, stirring frequently. Spoon cream sauce into shallow bowls. Top with gnocchi. Sprinkle with oregano leaves, lemon zest, nutmeg, and additional salt and pepper.