
A whole beef tenderloin is a holiday splurge, an ideal party centerpiece that tastes as good hot as it does at room temperature. It also looks impressive, especially if it’s evenly rosy through the center and nicely browned on the outside. To achieve that, a combination of soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce and sugar is mixed with butter to slather all over the meat. It helps create a caramelized yet delicate deep-brown crust without the hassle of searing and gives the mild meat a more complex savory flavor. So does a classic creamy <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1023742-horseradish-sauce">horseradish sauce</a>. This cut would also be delicious with herby <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020544-chimichurri">chimichurri</a> or a rich <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1018531-bearnaise-sauce">béarnaise</a> and goes with just about any <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/68861692-nyt-cooking/719113-christmas-dinner-side-dish-recipes">holiday side dish</a>. An untrimmed beef tenderloin costs a lot less than one that comes peeled and tied. Follow the tip to prepare it yourself and use the trimmings to make stock.
Take the beef out of the refrigerator an hour before cooking so that it will cook evenly and not end up overdone on the outside while the center is still cold. Pat it very dry if it isn’t already.
Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Line a large sheet pan with foil. Place the beef on the pan.
Mix the butter, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce and sugar in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Pour the mixture all over the beef, using your hands to spread it around. Sprinkle the beef generously with salt (about 2 teaspoons) and press in an even coating of pepper (about 1 teaspoon).
Roast until browned and a meat thermometer inserted in the center registers 120 to 125 degrees for medium-rare, 25 to 30 minutes. (Start checking at 20 minutes to make sure you don’t overcook the meat.) Use the foil to lift and transfer the beef with its juices to a cutting board. Let rest for 15 to 20 minutes. The internal temperature of the meat will rise 5 to 10 degrees as it rests.
Transfer the beef to the cutting board, reserving the foil with its juices, and cut the beef into slices for serving. Arrange on a serving platter and pour over all of the juices from the foil and cutting board. Sprinkle with parsley, if you’d like, and serve with the horseradish sauce.