Tinolang Manok (Chicken Tinola)
You could call tinola a chicken soup, but that is just a literal description for a dish that, in the Philippines, is more like a form of medicine. The writer Jill Damatac remembers her lola (grandmother) putting a whole chicken in the pot; in her own version, she bronzes thighs and drumsticks then submerges them in chicken stock and sets to a simmer. The broth’s depth comes from ginger, peppery malunggay (moringa) leaves and patis (fish sauce), standing in for salt. Chayote, kin to squash but as bracing as an apple, yields a clean, juicy bite. Be patient: The soup’s subtle flavor “does not bloom, soft and gentle on the tongue, until the second mouthful,” Ms. Damatac writes in her memoir, “Dirty Kitchen” (Atria, 2025). As a luxurious topping, she buys extra chicken skin from the butcher, crisps it and adds it to the soup at the last moment, for a satisfying shatter.
Ingredients
- 2 tablespoonsvegetable oil
- 3 poundsbone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks
- 1 mediumyellow onion, finely chopped
- 1piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
- 6garlic cloves, minced
- 1whole filipino or thai chiles, plus more thinly sliced chiles for serving, if desired
- 4 cupschicken stock
- handful of whole black peppercorns
- 2 tablespoonsfish sauce, preferably patis (filipino fish sauce; see tip), plus more for serving
- 2chayote, peeled, halved, seeded and sliced into 1-inch cubes
- 2 cupschicken skin (optional), from the butcher
- 2 cupspacked whole moringa leaves or pepper leaves (fresh, or frozen and thawed) or baby bok choy (see tip)
- steamed jasmine rice, for serving
Directions
- 1
Heat the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium. Working in batches as needed, add the chicken thighs and drumsticks skin side down to the pot and cook, undisturbed, until the skin is deep golden brown and crisp (or to your preferred level of color and crispness), 8 to 10 minutes. Flip and cook until browned on the second side, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
- 2
Add the onion, ginger, garlic and whole chiles, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent and the garlic lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Return the chicken to the pot.
- 3
Add the chicken stock, peppercorns, fish sauce and 2 cups water. Bring to a low simmer; cover and cook for 20 minutes.
- 4
Skim off and discard the rendered fat from the top of the pot. Add the chayote and simmer on low, covered, for 10 minutes, until the chayote can be pierced easily with a fork but still offers some resistance, and the chicken is cooked through and tender.
- 5
If desired, while the chicken is cooking, make the crispy chicken skin topping: Working in batches if necessary, place the chicken skins in a single layer in an unheated nonstick pan and heat on medium. Fry until golden brown on both sides and crispy, letting the excess fat render out, 6 to 8 minutes total. Transfer the crispy skin to a paper-towel lined plate, to soak up any excess oil.
- 6
When the chicken is cooked through and just before serving, add the moringa leaves to the pot and cook 1 minute. Sample the broth and adjust seasonings to taste: There should be a gentle balance of flavors, with a hint of fish sauce.
- 7
Serve family-style with thinly sliced chiles (if using), rice, crispy chicken skin (if using) and fish sauce on the side for diners to season to their taste.